Get ready for a whole lot of soaking.
Early Sunday morning, I stumble into my kitchen, kneel down in front of the half-sized closet under the stairs that we use as a pantry, and find some beans. Every surface of the kitchen is piled with unwashed baby bottles and pump parts, the table layered with dirty dishes and unread newspapers. I'm in a fog of yet another sleepless night, preceded by months of mostly sleepless nights, but I know that I want to make beans for dinner.
I didn't always appreciate beans the way I do now. Growing up, I rarely ate them, aside from a handful of Great Northerns hidden in the depths of my mother's minestrone soup, or the sweet baked beans she served with a can of molasses-darkened Boston brown bread. But I grew to crave them in my post-college years in New York after frequenting a neighborhood Italian restaurant that served its bread baskets with small bowls of cannellini beans, swimming in olive oil and garlic.
. In it, she writes:"The way to keep bean soaking from getting in the way of your cooking beans is to detach the process from today's hunger and expectations." Just put the beans in a pot with water whenever you happen to think of it, she urges. That way, you can cook them later that same day, or even the next day, and they'll already be soaked and ready.
Adler also suggests serving your beans with sausages in a sort of faux cassoulet, and making others into a sage-y gratin with any leftover shredded meat you have on hand. You can purée cooked beans into a creamy soup, stuff others in corn tortillas, and when the beans are gone, you can even store the cooking broth in the refrigerator, warming it up to sip on its own. Each spoonful, Adler writes, tells"the story of the beans' slow bubbling amid herbs and garlic.
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