A $65 Perfume for Ice Cream? In This Economy?

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A $65 Perfume for Ice Cream? In This Economy?
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Salt and Straw hopes you’ll spray this perfume on your ice cream.

The edible fragrances are designed to enhance the eating experience by imbuingyour ice cream. The morning the vials arrived on my doorstep, I spent a not-insignificant amount of time misting the Citrus, Floral, and Cocoa aromas over the various scoops of Salt and Straw I was already harboring in my freezer. How do they taste? Like not much, really. But flavor isn’t really the point of this strange ice cream gimmick, or any of the other absurdist scoops currently flooding the market.

Brands don’t actually expect you to adopt novelty products like these into your regular culinary arsenal, says Sarah Masoni, an award-winning dairy judge and ice cream innovator who works with food companies to develop new products at Oregon State University’s College of Agricultural Sciences. Wacky ice cream flavors are usually produced in a limited run and intended to get hyped-up customers in the door, she says, “because at the same time, they’re going to buy their favorite” scoops.

Ice cream isn’t the only food category losing its marbles in name of sales: Taco Bell recently launched a tostada that’s stuffed with an enormous

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