’90s Snacks Are Back in a Major Way. Can Nostalgia Save Junk Food?

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’90s Snacks Are Back in a Major Way. Can Nostalgia Save Junk Food?
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The ingredients and production of Cheez Balls and Dunkaroos are murky, but these snacks provide a certain comfort now more than ever

, employees of the animal feed company continued to experiment with frying techniques and flavorings, like cheese powder.Extruded cornmeal-based snacks are everywhere now. And they’re not just snacks; biodegradable packing peanuts, made from cornstarch or other edible, food-based starches, are created using the same kind of process with high-heat extruders. A representative for, a biodegradable packing peanut company, told me on the phone that they’re entirely edible.

Just as this year’s relaunch of Planters Cheez Balls required elaborate marketing efforts, these products were heavily advertised to their target audience. As processed corn- and soy-based products proliferated in the ’90s, Saturday morning cartoons were bookended by commercials for a wacky range of foods marketed to children — like bouncingcookies. And the boom in processed food followed an increase in advertising focused on African-American consumers during the ’70s.

Before the 2000s, most people had never heard of GMOs. Americans had no way of knowing whether they were eating trans fats, let alone that they were bad for you and would eventually be banned. Eric Schlosser hadn’t writtenand Michael Pollan hadn’t imbued omnivores with a best-selling dilemma. Millennials are definitely not the first generation with highly processed comfort foods — boomers have that unique honor.

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