From the controversy over Shein to the need for more voices to be included.
– which sees key industry figures meeting to drive forward fashion’s sustainability efforts – returned in-person at Copenhagen’s Royal Opera House this week. Previously known as the Copenhagen Fashion Summit, the new rebranding reflects the increased ambition level of the event.
“We want to make a bigger impact, accelerate the impact and the only way [to do that] is to go together,” Federica Marchionni, CEO of the Global Fashion Agenda, the non-profit behind the summit, tells, pointing to this year’s theme, ‘Alliances For A New Era’. “I hope we’re giving an example to the industry on how we can cooperate, and that more alliances are made to tackle specific actions.”
With major players including Gucci-owner Kering, Burberry and Nike in attendance alongside representatives from the United Nations Fashion Industry Charter For Climate Action and other NGOs, the summit represented an opportunity to tackle difficult subjects and discuss what still needs to be done to achieve a more sustainable future for the industry.
proved to be the biggest talking point. There was an audible gasp in the room when Liz Ricketts, co-founder of the non-profit that works with the community at Kantamanto Market in Accra, Ghana – the biggest second-hand clothing market in west Africa – would be receiving $15 million from the ultra fast fashion brand as part of its new $50 million fund to tackle clothing waste.
Many at the summit considered it an extreme case of greenwashing, although it raised questions over whether fast fashion brands should be paying for the devastating environmental impact they’re causing. “If Shein is willing to say that they do play a role in this and give money to clean it up – I don’t know who else should pay,” Ricketts later said.
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