Travelling to Kyoto, Wallpaper* explores the story behind 132 5 Issey Miyake’s ‘Triangle Dye’ collection which brings a centuries-old dyeing technique – traditionally used for kimonos – ...
’s signature recycled polyester, made from plastic bottles. The colour combinations include chocolate brown on a soft yellow undyed base; deep, nearly-black green on fiery orange; and indigo blue on light grey. The release of the clothing this August also coincides with a special exhibition highlighting the itajime process and collaboration at the‘The theme for this new collection is rotation,’ says one designer at 132 5– who speaks anonymously, as is often the case at the brand.
The pieces are created at a decades-old Kyoto company specialising in all things itajime. For the 132 5 pieces, loose white stitching is first attached to the surface of the folded origami-style pieces to mark the positioning of the wooden boards and the subsequent dye lines. Kneeling at a low table, Nohara aligns these markings with two wide pieces of sugi cedar on both sides, before pulling out the thread and holding the boards in place with temporary fastenings.
Then the fun begins: Nohara moves to a nearby U-shaped wooden contraption, which brings to mind a modified church pew. Just in front of its in-built seat is a wooden panel with a metal hook holding a roll of linen thread. Settling onto his green chequered cushion, Nohara pulls the string with unexpected strength, triggering a loud creaking sound in the process, before winding it three times around each end of the boards.
‘I’ve been doing this since I was 23 years old,’ says Nohara, who is now 63. ‘It took me ten years to master. At first, it was very painful for my body and joints. Everything was so hard. The most important part when dyeing kimonos is making sure that the boards are correctly positioned and the lines are separated properly.’ Referring to the 132 5 collaboration, he smiles: ‘This is completely different from making a kimono.
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