Light, heat, and oxygen are all enemies of olive oil, meaning your best bet is that the liquid gold is contained in a dark glass or entirely opaque bottle
Photo: Marcus McDonald; Food Styling by Jamie Kimm The olive-oil section at the grocery store is no joke. Some hail from Greece, others from California, others still from Italy. Some are small with high price tags; others are bigger at a reasonable cost. Some boast that they’re “extra-virgin,” and others say “pure” or “refined.
Finally, Jenkins says, you can look for the olive varietal or the estate on which the olives were grown and pressed. While there are equally delicious olive oils being made everywhere from well-known countries like Italy, Greece, and Spain, to less-thought-of places like California, Chile, and Australia, bigger industrial producers tend to mix a bunch of different strains together .
Tasting and character notes: This is where personal preference really comes into play. Professionals can get super-nerdy about describing different olive oils . Even so, there is something to be said for considering the general profile, whether it leans grassier, or spicier, or nuttier, whether it gives you a kick in the back of the throat, or is generally well-rounded and mild.Many of our experts mentioned California Olive Ranch as a go-to .
Hyland and Lycopolus both say Cobram Estate makes a delicious olive oil. Because of the price point, it would be well suited as an oil for dipping or for dressings, both of which would benefit from something you can use relatively liberally but that is distinctly tasty in its raw form. “It’s buttery and grassy at the same time, which is a combo you don’t usually get,” says Hyland. “It’s complex but also easygoing. Get a nice bread, dip it, add some Maldon salt, and eat that for dinner.
Liz Quijada, co-owner and baker at New York City’s Abraço, uses this olive oil to make most of the baked goods at her cafe — including her beloved olive oil cake, which has been on the menu since 2007. She spent five years searching for the right one, and when she tried Siti Lantzanakis, “I was like, ‘Oh, it’s perfect,’” she says. Quijada describes it as “a bit vegetal with a subtle brightness” that won’t compete with a recipe’s sweetness.
For finishing steak or dipping bread at home, Claire Wadsworth, co-owner of La Copine, turns to Wonder Valley, a Joshua Tree–based brand co-founded by Alison Carroll, a former quality-control member of the California Olive Oil Council. “If we could afford to use it in the restaurant, we would,” she says. “It’s always peppery — that’s the first thing I noticed — and it has a kick, but it’s still buttery and luscious.
For those curious to learn the difference between Koroneiki and Picudo olives or the history of how olives were crushed to make oil, Lewin recommends Fat Gold, a small-batch producer in the Bay Area. Every order comes with a zine with tasting notes and details on how that bottle was produced — anything from the subtleties of the olive varietal to the science of how it was grown and harvested — as well as recipes and sometimes even literary pairings .
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